It was a small Guardian travel tip that set in motion a strong curiosity, I realised hadn’t been on an overnight train before outside of the UK before. What better way to start the chapter then by embarking on “Europe’s most spectacular train ride” from Belgrade to Bar!

The railway itself, crossing an international border between Serbia and Montenegro, is an engineering feat. The journey stretches around 476KM, passing through 254 tunnels and more than 400 bridges. Opened in 1976 after 25 years of construction in former Yugoslavia, it climbs to over 1,000 metres above sea level near Kolašin before descending towards Podgorica and the Adriatic coast.

I used the website ManinSeat61 for information. Initially, the only way to book tickets was by visiting the main train station itself in Belgrade. Based on this, our trip plan … was no plan at all! Either we’d board the train successfully, or we would find another arrangement to get form A to B.

After a quick nip in a taxi to Beograd  CENTER-Prokop, we stood on the platform ready with our backpacks. My hair and clothes had a faint scent of cigarette smoke, Serbia is one of the few countries in Europe still permitting widespread indoor smoking.

The Soviet era train rolled in, it was a traditional locomotive hauled train covered in colourful graffiti. Guards stood on the platform as passengers scrambled towards the various train doors. We thought we did our research, even coming ready with a print out, yet the next 10 minutes on the platform became increasingly tense and stressful. There was a big language barrier in place where no staff members spoke English, combining this with the Serbian language that sounded forceful, made me feel like we were being shouted at by everyone.

The staff member uttered direct comments, pointing that there was no cabin number and gesturing us along to another staff member.

Newly launched in July 26, Alice and I found out that the overnight sleeper could now be booked via Srbijavoz (Serbian Railways) or ZPCG (Montenegro Railways). We took the gamble and booked the train ticket with ZPCG, with the newly launched ticketing system.

Alice and I ran down the length of the platform, eventually finding a conductor with a clipboard who briefly pointed at number 44. I clambered on the train immediately, feverishly whispering to Alice to get on the train, she asked the conductor one last time who pointed at number 44: even though our online ticket had no cabin reservation, he kindly found an empty one for us. We boarded the train and within one minute, the train rumbled out of Belgrade. I saw a blue sticker on the door encouraging passengers to lock the cabin door, I didn’t need telling twice. I locked the door right away, praying that we wouldn’t have to share the cabin with a stranger.

The train soon became a rhythmic clatter. With very limited space within the cabin itself, it was easier to lie down on the bed. We each brought a plastic bag with train snacks, from a punnet of mushed raspberries to marshmallow biscuits, we tucked into a couple of snacks before braving a visit to the toilets. I went first, walking past the train guard as he was sat at the end of the corridor. I crossed to another carriage, finding a door marked WC with no running water and a toilet seat over a hole. I had unsettled stomach cramps earlier in the day, however some form of defense mechanism had kicked in, perhaps with the knowledge of the impending train ride, and I thankfully felt fine for the journey.

Alice went after me shortly, only to return completely ashen-faced. “Tiddy, there is literal shit all over the floor, sink, walls and toilet, I’m going to be sick!”.
“What do you mean!?” I just went!” It was extremely basic, but there was no excrement anywhere. Alice had found 2 different unmarked doors that were assigned toilets for our carriage, without knowing, I had accidentally ventured further away, avoiding the poo catastrophe. I walked with my travel buddy to the toilet that I found, we used the facilities once, and held out for the rest of the train journey. “I still feel sick, it’s the smell” Alice quipped when she came back.”Why would someone spray shit all over the walls, if you really need to go, they should do it hanging out the window rather than inside!?”. We both started laughing non-stop, perhaps with the image of a passenger trying to toilet outside of a window.

Three bunk beds were stacked on top of each other as we settled in to try to get a nights sleep. There is the deep rumble of the engine, and the occasional screech of metal as the train slows down or rounds a bend. Every now and then, the carriage jolts, making my head shift, I had bundled a jumper onto the pillow, eventually the rhythmic rocking felt almost soothing, as we lulled to sleep on the train.

At 3:30AM, there were sudden loud, very forceful knock on our compartment door that jolted us awake. I woke up briefly feeling shocked as I tried to make sense of where I was. Uniformed and booted border guards flicked on our cabin light on immediately as I opened the door and silently handed over our passports. Our passports were stamped as I crawled back under the blanket, together with a sarky comment to Alice: “what would they do anyway if I didn’t have my passport? Kick me off the train in the middle of the night?!” Alice replied jokingly “well, they’d take us”, the comment playing into the odd human fear that you’re always made to feel you’ve done something wrong at border control.

I immediately fell back to sleep only to hear BANG! BANG! BANG! A second round of unexpected knocks emerged 30 minutes later. I didn’t rouse immediately as I thought the knock was for another cabin, the knocking then came again, even louder and more impatient. I opened the door to more border guards, this time with one female border official and one male rather than the two burly Serbian officials from last time. We realised that the border crossing is done in 2 stints, one leaving Serbia and one entering Montenegro. Our passports were stamped a 2nd time as we lulled back into a broken nights sleep.

It poured with rain through the night and everything looked washed out and weary: it reflected how we felt rolling into Bar. I stepped off the train feeling like I’d been tumble dried and thrown back into the world to function as a normal person.

With arriving before 07:00AM in the morning, we proceeded to a beach side cafe to await hotel check in. We ordered a fresh orange juice each, playing with a set of cards with an unfolding view of the Adriatic sea after our first European sleeper experience.

Trip Tips

• From January 2025, Belgrade became the largest European city to offer complimentary bus travel for all. Belgrade Prokop was either an hour on the bus, or a 10 minute taxi ride, I used the App Yandex-Go to order a cab as Uber is not in Serbia.
• There are no power plugs, no water, no food and basic facilities. Bring everything you’ll need with you for a overnight stay.
• We booked via ZPCG Montenegro Railways, supposedly a berth number was meant to be emailed to us after but we did not receive anything. I’d recommend booking via Srbijavoz (Serbian Railways) for a instant berth allocation
• We initially chose First Class as it was only €10pp for the 11 hour journey. This did not materialise for us, however the bunks were comfortable and clean. Tickets were approximately €50pp for the sleeper.
• We travelled semi off-season in October and booked our train ticket just 2 days in advance online, I’d recommend booking this earlier during busier travel periods.
• We exchanged £40 to Serbian Dinar (дин) and thought that 1 to 1.5 days was enough in Belgrade. We stayed at Arka Barka Floating Hostel which we loved!
• We booked last minute deal at Cube Hotel in Bar for around £88 for one night. The hotel gave us complimentary fruit and had spa facilities, it was the perfect remedy after the night train
• If you have any questions, comment here and I’ll be happy to help. I continued my Montenegro adventure by bus to Bar, Budva, Kotor and Podgorica.