Day 1 Mon 18th Sept – Ruka to Suolampi

• Fly from Helsinki to Kuusamo 1hr 50 mins (10:00am – 11:50am)
• €10 Airport bus with Pohjolan Matka from Kuusamo to Ruka (30 mins)
• Hiked from Ruka to Suolampi, 3.5 hours, 2:00pm to 5:30pm

‘It’s always the first day…’ I think with a sigh. Whether it be leading a Chicagoan doctor astray with my accident prone navigation on the West Highland Way, or staying at a local’s house due to the kindness of strangers on the Coast to Coast, there is always the thought of admitting defeat and calling it a day when I start a multi-day hike.

Together with Alex, our next challenge was the most popular hiking trail in Finland, the Karhunkierros Trail (The Bear Trail), a secluded trail taking in the expansive lakes, verdant forests and secluded canyons of Northern Finland and Lapland!

Our Day 1 challenge materialised in 3 forms: no bus on arrival, no matches to cook with, and sleeping in freezing temperatures. We arrived at Kuusamo Airport after a twin propeller flight from the capital city of Helsinki. With over 180,000 lakes in Finland, we were able to witness an aerial view of boreal forests, and never-ending lakes near the Arctic Circle as we descended into Northern Finland. I rubbed my hands with glee and excitement “this feels incredible and otherworldly!”

Upon arrival at Kuusamo it was a seamless connection to Ruka (all buses are timed to align with flight arrivals). From there, our first day went downhill.
We asked for an onward bus at the Information Centre to Hautajärvi, the start of the trail head, only to be told that the next bus isn’t until Wednesday!? (we landed on Monday). No problem I gist to Alex, we can do the trail in reverse!

Having flown in, we relied on purchasing methylated spirits (cooking fuel) locally. We checked Wolfsport, Intersport and K-Market only to receive the same gentle shake of the head – no we don’t have it. I felt a slight panic, god we need to cook on the trail! Returning to the Information Centre again, we asked the same staff member who phoned ahead to Sale Ruka, which thankfully had the spirit in stock. It was a supermarket 20 minutes walk away from the town centre. My 10kg rucksack was already digging into my shoulders, it created a dull ache before we even started the trek. 20 minutes from town, yet a 40 minute round trip before we even begin?! I felt dejected as we descended a rocky trail as a shortcut. We spotted a outdoor electric meter box and we decided to hide our rucksacks behind there whilst fetching the fuel.

From no buses to no fuel to a surprise route reversal, we began the trail late lunch time. It was a relentless, lung bursting ascent for the first hour. We witnessed an unfolding landscape of never ending tree cover and jet-blue lakes glisten beneath us. The first day captured the Finnish wilderness at its finest.

We passed the first wooden shelter on route called Valtavaara where we witnessed the first of many Finnish traditions en route: the art of a outdoor get togethers with grilled sausages and cold beer (Grillimakkara). The scent of grilled sausages was mouth-watering and we decided to tuck into our lunch supply of cream cheese, tortilla wraps and mixed nuts.

They always say the first day is the toughest. The mountainous landscape soared high into the sky and my rucksack dug in painfully, every small break we took was like a mini punishment. Within a minute of stopping, we realised how numbing the air was, even in September. A whisper of cold air would permeate through clothing the moment we stopped. We eventually reached Suolampi where we saw the remnants of a warm and crackling fire, there were two Finnish ladies sitting by the shelter.

Alex set to cutting firewood to get the fire going (In Finland, National Parks provide sheds of complimentary firewood) whilst I conversed with the Finnish ladies. They were bravely attempting to finish the trek today, even with hiking in the dark, all in pursuit of a hot pizza as a reward at the end. Alex dumped the dry, split wood on the ground only for us to have a mild panic in search of our lighter. It suddenly dawned on us. God. It’s been taken by security! We have all the cooking equipment, but not the life giving matches or a lighter to ignite a flame. I suddenly noticed the purple security sticker on Alex’s strap, the hold luggage was searched. I feel the similar bubble of self-frustration and try to think back to the Isle of Skye where I was certain I brought matches with me. No rationales. No excuses – this is our fault and we’ll have to deal with it.

The Finnish lady watched as I attempted to ignite the smouldering ashes with a tissue, gently blowing on the rising warmth. She immediately knelt towards me and struck a match she had in her pocket. The roar of golden, flickering warmth made me feel more human again.

We conversed together around the fire. Alex and I stupidly admitted we did not check the lighter restrictions (for all readers they can be brought on inside hand luggage!). The Finnish ladies seemed surprise too, ‘they removed it from your bag?‘ She asked in curiosity. Without hesitation, she took the small box of matches out her pocket and handed them to us. My jaw dropped open. I asked to make sure the gesture wasn’t compromising their safety or desire for warmth and they said they had 2 boxes. I tripped over my words in gratitude. It was gestures like this where we witnessed the typical Finnish traits of kindness, resilience, a shy nature and a love for the outdoors. As the ladies left to continue their hike, a solo female trekker with ashen blonde hair, forest-green combat trousers and a rucksack larger then her stature joined us. She had a large hunting knife strapped to her waist as she glided to the campsite while omitting an aura that I can only describe as ‘Lara Croft’ like; component and strong.

We prepared a warming dinner of tomato meatballs with my favourite packet of Idahoen mashed potato (highly recommended!). We spent the evening conversing with Helena, the female hiker, by the crackling fire. She was on the trail whilst her husband was in Northern Finland running a photography exhibition. I admired her tenacity to go out and explore solo after a long road trip away from her hometown.

As the sun dipped, the icy grip of the Arctic air lingered. Alex whispered “Can I borrow your hat?”. With temperatures at almost 0°, I silently hand the hat to him, knowing that my skin temperature is always oddly warmer then his. We unrolled our sleeping bags in preparation for one of the coldest nights of our lives: sleeping in Finnish wilderness in a semi-open shelter. As the sun dips, my legs feel like frozen ice poles, I feel my shoulders quiver and teeth chatter to generate heat.

I’d stupidly brought along a lightweight sleeping bag (comfort temp 12°), in an attempt to carry as little weight as possible. Alex and I were both stunned into wordless silence. “Excuse me?” Helena quips as she emerges from her tent. “I’m sorry I didn’t mean to listen, but I heard you did not have a hat, please can you take this to keep warm?”

She kneeled besides us and hands me a mustard yellow buff. I trip over my words in gratitude without knowing what to say, are you sure? That is really kind and thoughtful of you, thank you! I completely taken aback by the kind gesture as I pulled the buff straight over my head. It was a restless evening as we attempted to stay warm in what was the coldest night of my life.

Trip tips

• Helsinki is served by most low-cost airlines from the UK, we flew with Ryanair. We booked our domestic flights with FinnAir from Helsinki to Kuusamo.
• At Kuusamo Airport, it is for a €10pp Airport bus with Pohjolan Matka from Kuusamo to Ruka (30 mins)
• The traditional route of The Bear Trail / The Karhunkierros Hiking Trail is Hautajärvi to Ruka. We walked it in reverse with no problems as the signposting is in both directions.
• I would recommend doing The Bear Trail in reverse as the hardest day on the route is the last leg from Ruka to Porontimajoki (map here). It means getting the hardest out of the way first and we also did not meet a single hiker doing the route in reverse, this allowed better hut availability later on for our trek (Day 2, 3, 4 and 5).
• I made the mistake of assuming the bus to Hautajärvi runs everyday. It only runs Wednesday to Sunday, the timetable is here.
• All food and drink needs to be carried with you as there are no facilities on route except for Oulanka Visitor Centre which is on Day 2 of the trail (or Day 4 if doing it in reverse).
• We boiled water in order to sterilise water before drinking. There are streams and water courses along the way.
• Lighters are allowed in hand luggage only, not hold luggage.
• Day 2, 3, 4 and 5 is TBC.
• If you have any questions, please feel free to comment here and I’ll be happy to help.