Continued from Walking the Camino De Santiago Part I

Day 3 – Portemarin to Palas de Rei 24km

It was my first official night as a Pilgrim following my stay at Ultreia. I hadn’t stayed in a dormitory in years and any doubts I had about privacy, cleanliness or ‘the logistics of having a shower‘ were long gone. The showers were hot and the beds were extremely comfortable.

I can’t describe how I felt in words, but walking 5 to 6 hours a day, whilst simultaneously escaping the juggle of 3 jobs and modern day responsibilities made me the happiest I’d been in a long time. I no longer felt I was plate spinning. Before my trip, my full-time work was impacting my friendships, whilst coffee van duties was affecting my full-time work. It started to feel unbearable and recurrent, to the extent where I’d display a tough exterior for months on end, only to burst into tears in complete uncharacteristic burn out. On the Camino, I didn’t have to worry about any of this and it felt oddly euphoric: I was doing a fortnights worth of exercise in a day, the walking made the local food mouth-wateringly delicious and being on my feet all day gave rise to the best nights sleep. The leg from Portemarin to Palas de Rei cemented a friendship I’d make for life: meeting Nuvia.

I checked out of Ultreia and re-traced my steps back to the bridge at Portemarin. The culture of the Camino involves most pilgrims rising before sunrise to start the trek. Unknown to this, I stayed in bed until what I thought was a ‘reasonable 8:00am’, only to realise that all the other walkers were gone.

It was a fairly steep walk out of Portemarin. After a overthinking a turn at a frosty wooden bridge, I turned back on myself and re-traced my steps back to Portemarin. I was facing the wrong way and it was at this moment where I bumped into Nuvia and her cousin, seeing a familiar face on the trail made me smile. We traversed back across the wooden bridge again. We walked and talked for hours together. Nuvia had lived in the UK, we both worked in the Travel Industry, we were both waitresses, we chatted about other pelegrinos we met and the unspoken yearn of wanting more then the confines of what we’re born into. We giggled about blisters, customer complaints and creepy men. Walking and talking felt like the most natural thing in the world.

We walked nearly 20km together until parting ways at Reitoral de Lestedo. Auberges do not routinely provide breakfast and the whole day so far consisted of nibbling on my guilty pleasure of white chocolate (in the form of Filipinos: doughnut shaped biscuits coated in chocolate). I desperately wanted something warm and savoury and took the chance to order an egg sandwich from the cafe.

The bread was nourishing and home-made and the eggs tasted bright and energising. Upon being seated for 5 minutes, it suddenly hit home that I was aching all over. The hip belt dug into my waist, emitting a dull pain. My feet were throbbing in protest and my knees were asking why I’d suddenly switched from sitting 8 hours a day to continuous walking. It felt like everything from waist down was hurting. I took note of Renee’s wise words that she shared with me yesterday and took an Ibuprofen for the last KMs into Palas de Rei.

The combined sandwich with a painkiller added a bounce to my step. I met up with x4 ladies walking together and saw Mary again from Canada. I asked out of curiosity if the ladies were together and they all said No, they had met each other on the Camino. I suddenly realised that the largest demographic of travellers I’d met on the Camino were solo female travellers and this made my heart swell with joy. For the last section, I walked alongside Franci, a girl from Berlin who worked as a matron at a top boarding school in Harrogate. We chatted about relationships, camper-vans and our shared flaw of ‘supreme organisation’. I told her I read reviews extensively on restaurants before choosing one, she said she didn’t want to stay at Auberges and booked all her hotels in advance. We arrived into Palas de Rei together and parted ways when I checked into Albergue San Marcos.

I remember glancing at the top bunk in dismay. Day 2 of the Camino was the day when everything started to hurt. I would trek at a steady walking pace feeling absolutely fine, then the moment I stopped I’d feel my knees and feet pulsating painfully. I sighed quietly, grabbed the rungs and rolled into bed with as much grace as a beached whale. A wave of appreciation for the Spanish siesta between 5pm to 7pm came over me as I napped for a few hours straight from the trek.

My stomach was grumbling in protest after my nap. Having looked at some restaurants online, I settled on Pulpería A Nosa Terra (thankfully only a 2 minute walk from my accommodation). Following yesterdays meal, I didn’t need to glance at my phone anymore for a Spanish translation. I entered the establishment and asked for ‘Una mesa para uno, por favor?‘. I settled at a table in the middle of the restaurant for a couple of minutes until I heard the chair opposite me scrap on the tiled floor. I glanced up and made eye contact with the girl from Berlin, Franci! “I thought you’d be in here, the restaurant has the best reviews, may I join you?” she quipped with a smile.

I connected with Franci on so many levels. She plays football, loves travel and was taking a sabbatical away from teaching. She’d come out of a relationship a year ago and I could still sense her emotions as raw and hurting. I don’t know how the Camino De Santiago did this, but it stripped away the public facades we hold dear to ourselves and revealed vulnerabilities and qualities we all share deep down. I told Franci I was ultimately very happy, I just felt constantly under pressure and travel was the escapism that filled me with fire. We enjoyed a delicious dinner together and wished each other Buen Camino.

Day 4 – Palas de Rei to Arzua 29km

Despite the modern aesthetics of Albergue San Marcos, unfortunately it was my least favourite accommodation on route. The showers didn’t have anywhere to store clothing and I optimistically brought my fresh clothes with me to hang on the interior hook. I watched in shock as my undergarments fell off the hook and soaked onto the wet floor. Retrospectively it probably wasn’t the best idea not bringing a spare bra. I bagged the items in contemplation of the quickest way to dry the items.

I set off earlier at 07:30am as this was the longest day to cover on my trip. The aches and pains from yesterday were gone – all that lingered was a slight stiffness that alleviated the more I walked.

I was an hour into a forested trail until I saw a bobble hat and a familiar orange backpack. Lilly, a solo traveller from South Africa, walked up to me in recognition as we shared the same dormitory the night before. She said hello and we made conversation about the previous night. We spoke about the instance of a woman hovering over everyone’s bunk and asking if anyone had any conditioner? I said no politely and didn’t think anymore about it but Lilly adamantly said she found the interaction rude given that the woman was asking late at night.
I griped about being assigned top bunk when there was a empty lower bunk beneath me. Lilly had been on the trail for over a month and she said she watched in sympathy when I winced climbing onto the bed: she knew exactly what I was feeling. She told me to be polite and firm, if it’s painful to climb, request a bottom bunk at reception. I realised it’s a trait I can only describe as being ‘too British’, not requesting something in fear of being regarded as a nuisance. Lilly and I walked together for an hour, we were both middle siblings, she was passionate about gardening and I told her about my excitement on travelling to Cape Town in February 2023.

I reached the half way point, the town of Melide just before 12pm. I ordered the famous delicacy of Pulpo gallego – Galician squid served with smoked paprika, olive oil and crusty bread. The squid was succulent and melt in the mouth and the bread provided a perfect contrasting texture. The end location, Arzua, was still 14km away and after sitting in the restaurant, the familar aches and pains started to creep in. I started to wonder if I’d make it all the way to Arzua.

Shortly after leaving Melide, I traversed across farmland and saw a large golden retriever. “Hello Doggy!” I said outloud, only to realise there was a crunch of footsteps a few metres behind me. I flushed bright red in realisation that someone else had heard me, another Pilgrim called Christopher from Switzerland.

With only half of the distance under my belt, Christopher became my ‘encourager’ to get to Arzua. We walked and talked for hours, he spoke fondly of how his wife loved Thailand, his desire for spicy food, and his very laid back philosophy on doing the Camino. On some days he walked 4km, on others he walked 40km. His light-hearted and care-free nature hammered home a flaw I knew I had: frequently wanting to get things done and accomplished with little regard for ‘taking things slow’. We stopped for a drink and the pit stop again made me realise I felt rather tired and broken. Christopher was a horticulturist and he sourced apples, figs and edible leaves to boost energy levels whilst walking the Camino. I limped my way into Arzua together with Christopher and checked into Albergue Los Tres Abetos. In the evening, I went to the nearest eatery I could, had a pizza and dragged myself up the stairway banister to my bed. I limped so badly that there was almost comedic value to it. It’s a state I get into as I don’t know when to stop, my sister calls it “the broken pigeon” mode.

Day 5 – Arzua to O Pedrouzo 21km

Albergue Los Tres Abetos was my favourite hostel. Staff were friendly, the showers were private and the beds were ‘Japanese style’ pods. The privacy allowed me to nurse a few blisters away from prying eyes. Day 4 was the hardest day of the Camino for me and I didn’t spring back like most mornings, I began the day as stiff as a plank.

I was an hour into the penultimate day before I spotted a familiar Pilgrim in front of me, Nuvia! We shrieked in delight having not seen each other for a few days now. “I was worried about you!” announced Nuvia. I joked I hadn’t fallen into a ditch and I’m still here plodding away. Nuvia was there from the moment I started the Camino and we spent the whole day catching up to events. We complained about the tortuous distance yesterday, and made jokes about the ‘hot but not hot’ guy on the trail.

Nuvia and I were seated at a stone bench a few KMs short of O Pedrouzo. Over the last few days, I sporadically saw a woman in her 70s walking the trail. She wore a simple black hoodie and was holding a stick. She had distinctive, long curly grey hair and I felt a flood of admiration towards her due to the feat of completing the Camino at her age. We witnessed some walkers passing by who proceeded to kneel down at bench level and hand her a cereal bar and water. I suddenly felt mortified, if I knew she was hungry I would’ve offered her food straight away. The random act of kindness I witnessed filled me with warmth and appreciation for humankind. Nuvia and I watched the act together which opened conversation on how British and Spanish mannerisms differ towards helping people. I realised I had quite a scathing view of U.K which Nuvia sadly agreed with following her stint in Manchester, we thought people would mostly ignore or turn a blind eye when they can in the U.K towards helping a stranger.

We shared biscuits and blister plasters until we reached O Pedrouzo where we exchanged numbers to keep in touch. Day 5 felt like half the distance of Day 4. I checked into Albergue O Burgo in the early afternoon and I went to O Escondido for dinner, ready for the final leg of the Camino de Santiago.

Day 6 – O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela 20km

On the last day from O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, I was raring to go. Most Pilgrims will leave early in an attempt to reach Santiago Cathedral by 12pm for the Pilgrim’s Mass. I had a leisurely start at 9am and walked through villages, farmland and forests until I reached the outskirts of the city. It was the first time that I hadn’t bumped into as many pilgrims compared to previous journeys. I watched in anticipation as the distance markers lowered to single figures. I witnessed increased displays of inspirational quotes and words of wisdom as I got closer to the finish:

I bumped into Nuvia’s cousin just outside of Santiago and together we walked into a Cafe 10 minutes away from the Cathedral. I had a slice of rich Tortilla with a warming hot chocolate and I greeted Nuvia with a hug when she entered. We made the final approach to Santiago Cathedral together as we whooped, cheered and hugged in the rainfall when the majestic spires came into view.

We made our way to the Oficina del Peregrino where we both presented our completed stamped passports to the staff members. She greeted us very warmly and congratulated us for the feat. Our journey came to an end as we were presented with a traditional certificate, the Compostela.

Having combined two legs into one from Palas Dei Rey to Arzua, I finished off my stay in Spain with city visits to Santiago, Vigo and Pontemarin by train. I met up with Nuvia again a few days after the trek, where we spent the evening together in Vigo, a small city in Northern Spain competing for the best Christmas light display in the world. Nuvia walked me to the train station and before we parted ways, she presented me with a bracelet she’d made herself in recognition of the journey we went through together.

On the journey home, I couldn’t help but feel my throat tighten and my eyes water, what began as simply a walk on the Camino de Santiago transformed itself into a trip with unexpected connections. The surprise bracelet handmade by Nuvia marked the experience as something I will remember forever.

Trip Tips

• Part I of my Camino De Santiago is available on this link here. The link describes the bus, plane and logistics to get from A to B.
• The next day after completing the Camino, I bumped into Christopher at Asian Street food where we enjoyed a meal together. I bumped into Franci at the Oficina del Peregrino where we hugged warmly after finishing the walk.
• I stayed an extra 4 nights at Hotel Alda Bonaval which was a lovely hotel and situated in a great location
• I would highly recommend doing the Camino in off-season for ease of logistics, less crowding and booking accommodation

• I can’t put into words how the Camino made me feel. The 5-day walk in 112km has made me wanted to experience more routes and longer durations. If I can inspire one person to walk the Camino de Santiago, this would mean a-lot to me. The journey can be summed by Elisha on this text below:

“The journey you’ve all followed me on through the photos I’ve shared does little to truly harness the emotion & humility of being a pilgrim. Contrary to the blue skies & wild flowers, what the photos don’t capture is the pain, the tears, the comradery, the willpower, the love & power for change that exists within the confines of the Camino.

Your life suddenly becomes very simple – Each day you wake before the sun rises, quietly repack your belongings in the dark & you find a reason that compels you to put one foot in front of the other. That reason compels you to walk through pain; through shin splints, tendinitis, blisters, rain & hail. You walk, you eat, you laugh, you sleep, you repeat.

You cry. You cry because you’re happy, you cry as a result of pain, you cry because you’re humbled & you cry because of the deep love & respect you have for nature, the path & the people on it. Often you cry without reason at all.

The Camino makes you family; everything you have you must be willing to share. You share your last Compead, your wine, your burdens, your humour, your thoughts. You share of yourself without limitations, hesitation or personal gain. What you share becomes the testimony of your experience.

You share with strangers & quickly learn that 1 step back is more valuable than 100 steps forward in order to help another without thought for yourself. This lesson quickly breeds change & you see the best version of your Self reflected back at you in the eyes of those who you’ve stopped to help. The compassion, both given & received, cracks your heart wide open & makes it impossible to not be unequivocally changed by the experience of being human. By the experience of being a pilgrim.

The Camino compels you to look within, to be vulnerable, to let yourself need & be needed, to be compassionate; to dig deep into the confines of your heart & to learn about yourself. It tests your limits of physical & emotional pain & spins what you find into the most valuable possession you’ve ever held in your own two hands – The most authentic version of your Self you have ever known.

The journey to Santiago de Compostela is not an endurance challenge, a test of fitness, a competition or a walk about kilometres or miles. The Way is a journey into yourself. A journey into friendship, contemplation, silence, nature, humility, spirituality & gratitude.”

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