There was a 5 year gap between my last solo hike, The West Highland Way (2017) and the Camino De Santiago (2022). The thought of travelling solo again filled me with trepidation.

I hiked on the Camino from Sarria to Santiago (112km) and I found it to be a heartwarming and moving experience. The camaraderie between fellow hikers (pelegrinos/pilgrims), combined with the unexpected connections and frank conversations hammered home that we all have our own vulnerabilities but we’re striving towards a common goal. I am an Atheist but this didn’t matter, it was the spirit of searching: a unique and metaphoric feeling compared to other hikes I had completed. I met some wonderful pilgrims and below is a diary of my trip.

Day 1 – Fly to Santiago de Compostela

I counted over 18 different Nationalities I met on the hike, with a few of them citing how lucky I was that I was able to fly straight into Santiago de Compostela with Ryanair. Other hikers had come from as far as Australia, Taiwan, South Africa and Argentina and had to connect on regional trains from airports such as Madrid or Barcelona.

My flight was an hour delayed and I had my hands wrapped round a warming cup of tea. With a quick habitual glance at the departure screens, suddenly my flight updated from a one hour delay of ‘Gate displayed at 10:40am‘ to ‘Final Call‘ at 9:50am (the original departure time was 9:40am). With a shoe lace undone and an abandoned tea, I ran full pelt across the terminal to the gate in Home Alone style caricature, only to arrive at the departure date with everyone still waiting, and no sign of boarding the aircraft.

I heard an echo of complaint amongst other passengers. Undue airport related stress was the last thing anyone wanted. I was relieved I hadn’t missed the flight as I settled on a patch of floor to await boarding. It was a comfortable and short 1hr 50 minute flight to Santiago.

Upon arrival at Santiago Airport, I had a few hours to wait before an onward bus to Lugo, then Sarria. Whilst waiting at Lugo I felt a real chill in the air, it made me question if I’d brought enough warm clothes for the hike itself.

My accommodation, Casa Matias, was a couple of minutes walk from the bus station. With the option of staying in shared dormitories or hotels throughout the trek, I opted for a private room to begin the trip with (having not stayed in a dormitory in years!). I was happy and excited to begin the walk the next morning.

Day 2 – Sarria to Portemarin 22km

I awoke to the steady yet persistent sound of rainfall. Swinging my rucksack onto my back for the first time, I popped to Mercadona supermarket and picked up some cheese speckled breads and pastel de natas. Upon reaching the tills, an elderly lady gestured enthusiastically for me to pass her. I was a bit baffled, ‘Why?’, was the immediate thought that crossed my mind. It was from this very moment (which never crossed my mind to begin with) that I’d start to witness the gradual unfolding of the ‘spirit’ of the camino: the traits of kindness, connection, presence and simplicity.

I deviated off the trail in search of obtaining a pilgrim passport (Credencial) a passport to prove the distance walked on the Camino by obtaining stamps on the journey. November was low season and everything seemed closed. On the outskirts of town, I rung the bell at Albergue Monasterio, where a heavy oak door swung open. I was greeted by a spectacled priest wearing all black. I tried to ask in my best Spanish if I could purchase a credencial, he immediately sourced one and from there I begun the journey with my first dated stamp in Sarria. Leaving Albergue Monasterio, a local man holding a large yellow umbrella slowed his pace as he saw me approaching, I wasn’t quite on the trail yet and I saw him visibly wait for me to catch up. He asked Camino? and immediately pointed me in the right direction to begin the trek with.

I had a cheap rain jacket on with a hood that was too shallow to contain my ponytail. My left hand was cold, wet and exposed holding the hood over my head the whole time. As I approached a small bridge, I noticed two ladies trekking together, Nuvia and her cousin, two fellow hikers from the Galicia region. They were the very first Peregrinos I met on the Camino trail. I offered to take a photo for her and pressed onwards, once again unaware that the first Peregrinos I met would be the beginnings of a new friendship.

I hadn’t trekked with a large daysack and accumulated mileage for a few years and found the first day to be a struggle. On my first day, I was surprised at how many Camino markers there were, bright stones with the yellow arrow showing ‘The Way’ of the Camino. I walked through trails blanketed in orange hued leaves of Autumn. It rained for most of the morning and I decided to make a half-way stop at a local bar for a drink.

Everyone I walked past called out “Buen Camino!”. I had no idea what this meant initially, and I would return the greeting with a smile. The trails were clearly signposted and well-established with gravel paths. It started to pelt down with rain again mid-afternoon, I instinctively pulled my rucksack closer to me only to realise that my orange waterproof rucksack cover was gone. I was crestfallen as I really wanted to keep my spare clothes dry on the first day of my hike.

Throughout the 22km, I met Nuvia and her cousin, said hello to many hikers and walked alongside 2 ladies from Singapore and Taiwan. We spoke about covid and how it changed the fabric of society. Suddenly she exclaimed to me “work is pointless!“. I almost burst out laughing and said that I was surprised to hear that comment from her. She replied “do you know why? It’s because we’re Asian and brought up to think that work is life”. I immediately warmed to her. A passing conversation transformed into freedom of expression, escapism and vulnerability all round rolled into one. I didn’t realise that this was the beginning of the connections I’d form whilst walking the Camino.

As I started the final last KMs into Portemarin, I had a tap on the shoulder and a tall French hiker held up my waterproof rucksack cover. “Is this yours?” I felt my heart jump with joy to be reunited with a lost item a few hours later, “Yes, thank you so much!”. We hiked into Portemarin together and I learnt that he had been walking for the last 40 days. I was astounded by his resilience and easygoing nature having trekked for so long.

After crossing the bridge into Portemarin, I checked into an aurberge called Ultreia. I was glad to be off my feet. The entrance of the river-side town had a ‘Liberty Bell’ that pilgrims or passer-bys could trill to signify the search for freedom. After 5 hours on the trail, I wanted something comforting/warming and I popped into the supermarket to purchase a ready-made sachet of chicken noodle soup. Eateries and cafes in Spain were closed for the late afternoon siesta (3pm to 5pm), and there was a 3-hour gap until the dinner service in Spain at 7:30pm. I used the time to shower and relax at the hostel.

In the evening, I approached Restaurante Pérez and reached the bar area the same time as some other fellow pilgrims. I asked for a table for one in Spanish but was immediately invited by Jeffrey, an American hiker, to join them at their table. There I met Marcus from The Netherlands, Mari from Canada, Jeffery from the USA and Renee from Washington D.C. It’s has been a very long time since I had dinner with strangers but conversation was flowing and jokes were made about the trail. I learnt that “Buen Camino” meant good road in Spanish, but it can also mean good path, path being both physical and spiritual. It is the greeting shared by pilgrims and with local people who wish you well on the journey. We enjoyed the 3 course Menu Del Dia with bread and wine for 12 Euros. The pelegrinos were warm and welcoming and delighted to hear that it was only my first day on the trail, they spoke of how the Camino made people feel. Before leaving, Renee whispered a quick tip to me “Do you have anti inflammatories?” Take them before you start walking, not after. Nip the pain in the bud before you start”.

Trip Tips

• This was probably silly of me, but I had to Google what anti-inflammatory drugs were, this is simply off the shelf ibuprofen. I would recommend bringing some with you on the trail (I luckily had some with me).
• I didn’t bring a sleeping bag liner, I would recommend bringing this or a sleeping bag if you are doing the Camino. Auberges will provide wool blankets and the sleeping bag liner would be a good layer for hygiene
• I optimistically also did not bring Shampoo/Conditioner/Shower gel. Bring this with you as it is not provided at the Auberges
• The signposting on the trail is second to none, no maps or guidebooks are required. Trails are well established, and ascents/descents equate to approximately 400m per day. The 5-day Sarria to Santiago de Compostela Camino is achievable for anyone who likes walking
• I used the website Gronze to determine where to stay. I went in low season and did not pre-book accommodation after the first couple of nights. For the Camino de Santiago, pilgrims normally stay at Auberges (e.g. shared hostels) although there are plenty of options for private rooms as well. Dormitories are generally shared with 8 to 12 other hikers.
• There are points for filling up water on route, with cafes and snack bars that can provide a stamp for your credencial as well
• I travelled from SCQ Airport to Sarria (with a transit in Lugo) via Monbus. You can purchase tickets in a booth outside of the airport and you can pay by card. My tickets cost €11 for both journeys.
• I booked my flights a month prior to travel for £39, plus a cabin bag for £40 with Ryanair.
• Part II of my Camino de Santiago blog can be viewed here